• 作者: dfmzhu
• 來源: 佛山展翅調酒師學
• 日期: 2015-03-03
• 瀏覽次數: 2662 次

1. 雞尾酒是需要解答的問題。
想想看，我怎樣才能呈現某種特殊的味道、結構或外觀？我怎樣才能改善我面前的這杯酒？和其它有意義的追求一樣，調酒是持續一生的事業。你知道的越多，便會有更多的問題。你實踐得越多，越會意識到自己的技巧有所欠缺。完美是我們的目標，而不無幸運地是，沒人可以做到完美。為了調出完美的金湯力，我已經花費了七年時間和上千塊美金；可我依舊還在探索。如果我已經收手、已經滿足的話，那該多無聊啊！

1. Cocktails are problems in need of solutions.
Think, How can I achieve a particular taste, texture, or look? How can I make the drink in front of me better? Taking cocktails seriously, as with all worthy inquiries, puts you on a lifelong journey. The more you know, the more questions you raise. The better a practitioner you become, the more you see the faults in your technique. Perfection is the goal, but perfection is, mercifully, unattainable. I have spent seven years and thousands of dollars on the problem of the perfect gin and tonic; I still have work to do. How boring if I were finished – if I were satisfied.

2. 像科學家一樣思考。
懂點科學知識很有好處。要像科學家一樣思考，這樣你會制作出更好的酒飲。你無需成為一名科學家，甚至也不需要了解太多科學知識，就能將科學方法為你所用。控制變量，觀察并檢查結果；大致上僅此而已。

2. Think like a scientist.
A little dose of science will do you good. Think like a scientist, and you will make better drinks. You don’t need to be a scientist, or even understand much science, to use the scientific method to your advantage. Control variables, observe, and test your results; that’s pretty much it.

3. 遠離“分子調酒術”。
分子調酒術毫無可取之處：它只是市場推廣的鬼把戲而已，調出來的酒都不是很好喝，科學在這里走錯了方向。我的指導方針很簡單：只使用那些能改善酒飲口味的新技法和新工藝；調酒時原料種類寧少勿多；別指望客人會了解你的調酒過程而喜歡上它；成功的衡量標準是客人會不會再點一杯，而不是他/她認為這款酒很“有趣”；培養并信任你的味覺。

3. Resist the term “molecular mixology”.
The connotations of molecular are all bad: gimmicks for gimmicks’ sake, drinks that don’t taste very good, science gone wrong. My guidelines are simple: use new techniques and technologies only when they make the drink taste better; strive to make an amazing drink with fewer rather than more ingredients; don’t expect a guest to know how you made a drink in order to enjoy it; gauge success by whether your guest orders another, not by whether he or she thinks the drink is “interesting”; build and follow your palate.

4. 我不是不開心，但我從不滿足。
精益求精。不斷挑戰自己——尤其是你的基本宗旨和練習——會促進你不斷進步，無論在吧臺后、烘箱前還是你選擇的任何領域。我樂于見到自己堅信的理論被證實錯誤。這讓我感到充滿活力、一直在學習。

4. I am not unhappy, but I am never satisfied.
There’s always a better way. Constantly questioning yourself – especially your basic tenets and practices – makes you a better person behind the bar, in front of the stove, or in whatever field you choose. I love it when my dearly held beliefs are proved wrong. It means I’m alive and still learning.

5. 學會如何妥協。
我討厭妥協。我討厭投機取巧，但有些時候不得不如此。你對每件事都要采取不妥協的態度，但被迫妥協時又知道如何將影響降到最低。你關注的重點永遠是品質——從原料到酒杯選擇，一絲都不可馬虎。有些人花大量時間來準備調酒原料，但卻在最后一刻讓所有努力白費，真是令人咋舌。要記住，制作過程中的任何一個步驟都可以毀掉一杯酒。身為飲品制作者，你在飲品完成之前都必須保持警戒——而身為含酒精飲品的制作者，你的職責在客人安全到家后才宣告結束。

5. Learn how to compromise.
I hate compromising. And I hate cutting corners, but sometimes I have to. You need to keep hating compromise at every turn while knowing how to compromise with minimum impact when necessary. Always be focused on the critical path to quality, from raw ingredients to the cup. I am often surprised by how much work someone will put into making ingredients for a drink, only to destroy all that work at the last moment. Remember, a drink can be ruined at any stage of its creation. Your responsibility for vigilance as a drink maker doesn’t end until the drink is finished – and your responsibility as an alcoholic-drink maker doesn’t end until the imbiber is safe and sound at home.

6. 使用高量杯。
在瘦高型量杯和矮胖型量杯之間，我永遠選擇高的那個。它們可精確多了。矮量杯一毫米酒液的誤差要遠遠大于高量杯。

6. Use tall jiggers.
Given a choice between tall, skinny jiggers and short, squat jiggers, I always choose the tall. They are far more accurate. A pour that’s a millimeter higher or lower in a wide jigger constitutes a much larger error than it does in a skinny jigger.

7. 酒飲應該按體積計算。
我是按重量烹飪的堅定信徒，但調酒時我依據的是體積，而且你也應該如此。對調酒師而言，飲品最終的重量并不重要，重要的是其體積。體積決定了液面離杯沿有多近。這條線叫做液面線，而保持一個合理液面線是調酒必不可少的一部分。以職業角度而言，保持酒飲的品質穩定至關重要。為每杯酒制定液面線標準有助于肉眼檢查是否有錯誤。如果液面線不對，那么這杯酒肯定出了點問題。始終如一的液面線對客人利益也十分重要。兩位客人點了同一款酒，但其中一杯要更滿：酒更滿的那位客人更討你喜歡，還是你的技術不過硬？

7. Drinks should be measured by volume.
I am a big believer in cooking by weight, but I mix drinks by volume, and so should you. For the bartender, the weight of the finished beverage isn’t important, but the volume is. The volume determines how close the top of the finished drink will be to the rim of the glass. This liquid line is called the wash line, and maintaining a proper wash line is essential to good bartending. In a professional setting, it is essential that your drinks be consistent. Having standard wash lines for each drink you prepare gives you an instant visual check that everything is okay. If your wash line is wrong, something is wrong with the drink. Consistent wash lines are also important to your guests’ well-being. Two people get the same drink, but one drink sits higher in the glass: do you like the person with the taller pour more, or are your techniques just a bit shaky?

8. 鹽是個秘密武器。
鹽幾乎是我所有雞尾酒里的秘密武器。一小撮鹽可以讓任何一款含有水果、巧克力或咖啡的雞尾酒更上一層樓。我很少希望酒嘗起來是咸的，應該品嘗不出鹽的味道。你下次調酒時可以將調好的酒分為兩杯，一杯加少許鹽，另一杯不加。品嘗它們的不同口感——從此你再也不會將鹽遺忘在角落。在家里直接加一小撮鹽也沒問題，可在酒吧我們需要更加精確，因此我們將使用稀釋鹽水：將20克食鹽融于80毫升水（稀釋度20%）。一到兩滴這種稀釋鹽水就能為你的雞尾酒畫龍點睛。

8. Salt is your secret weapon.
Salt is the secret ingredient in almost all my cocktails. Any cocktail that includes fruit, chocolate, or coffee benefits from a pinch of salt. I rarely want a drink to taste salty; the salt should be subthreshold. The next time you make a cocktail, divide it into two glasses and add a pinch of salt to one glass but not the other. Taste the difference – you will never forget the salt again. At home you can get away with adding a pinch. At the bar we have to be more precise, so we use a saline solution: 20 grams of salt in 80 milliliters of water (20 per cent solution). A drop or two of this is all it takes to make a cocktail pop.

9. 別過于看重搖酒技巧……
有些調酒新手被誤導了，他們相信搖酒是一種功夫般的藝術，經過多年訓練才能精通。不然。在觀摩其他一部分調酒師搖酒之后，他們或許還堅信正確的搖酒不亞于一次有氧運動。同樣不然。而且他們可能以為要用最優質的冰塊才能做出最好的雞尾酒。（多半）不然。我要告訴你們一個好消息！使用幾乎任何種類的冰塊持續搖晃10秒以上，搖出來的酒都一樣可口和穩定。從技術角度而言，搖酒技巧根本不重要。搖得不夠用力可能會令稀釋程度不夠，但我幾乎從未見過這種情況。另一方面，我對瘋狂式的搖酒進行了實驗（我將其稱為“瘋猴子”），那樣發狂般地搖酒并不會降低最終溫度或者提高稀釋度。只要你搖到8-12秒鐘，那么最后做出來的酒無論如何都幾乎一樣。如果你搖的時間少于8秒鐘，那么也許稀釋度不夠。如果你搖了超過12秒，幾乎沒有更多效果——不過在浪費你的時間和精力。搖酒技巧真的不太重要，然而它會給你的風格加分——在雞尾酒世界，你可千萬不能忽略個人風格。

9. Don’t hyperfocus on your shaking technique…
Some cocktail neophytes have been led to believe that shaking is a kung fu–style art whose heights can be scaled only after years of training. Not true. They might also believe, watching some bartenders shake their tins, that proper technique involves an aerobic workout. Also not true. And they may be under the impression that the best cocktails can?be achieved only with the very best ice. (Mostly) not true. Good news! Any reasonable shaking technique that lasts at least ten seconds, using almost any kind of ice, can make a delicious and consistent shaken cocktail. From a technical standpoint, your shaking technique doesn’t matter at all. It’s possible to shake so languidly?that you underdilute, but I’ve almost never seen this happen. On the flip side, my tests of a maniacal shake that I dubbed the “crazy monkey” reveal that going bonkers doesn’t decrease final temperature or increase dilution. As long as you shake for between 8 and 12 seconds, your cocktails will be about the same, no matter what you do. If you shake for less than 8, you might be underdiluted. If you shake more than 12, almost nothing additional happens – you are just wasting time and energy. Shaking technique does matter quite considerably, however, in style points – and style is not to be ignored in the cocktail world.

10. ……也別太在乎你用的冰塊了。
多年以來，我用不同種類的冰塊進行過許多搖酒實驗。我用分析法測量稀釋度，我用并行法嘗試口感。結果幾乎總是一致：只要你遵循幾個簡單法則，使用的冰塊種類幾乎不會影響稀釋度。不論是酒店制冰機制作的3⁄4英寸（約20毫米）的中空冰塊，還是用Kold-Draft牌制冰機制作的11⁄4英寸（約30毫米）的固態冰塊（該品牌系列能夠制作出你能找到的幾乎所有冰），盡管冰塊表面積大不相同，但它們對雞尾酒的稀釋度幾乎一樣。訣竅是確保在搖酒前倒掉冰塊表面的化水：先在小型調酒聽內混合所需原料，在將冰塊放入較大的搖壺內，蓋上濾網后將搖壺頭朝下用力甩動，以去除多余的水。然后將冰塊倒入小型搖壺內搖勻。

10. …or the ice you use.
Over the years I have run many tests shaking different cocktails with different kinds of ice. I’ve measured the dilution analytically and I’ve done side-by-side taste tests. The results are almost always the same: provided you follow a few simple rules, the kind of ice you use almost never affects dilution. Any ice, from the 3⁄4-inch (20 mm) hollow cubes of hotel dispensers up to the 11⁄4-inch (30 mm) solid cubes from a Kold-Draft machine (this range includes almost all the ice you will come across), will dilute your drink the same amount, even though these cubes have radically different surface areas. The trick is to make sure you throw the surface water off the cubes before you shake: mix your cocktail in a small mixing tin, then put your ice into the larger tin, cap that tin with a strainer, and violently flick the tin downward to get rid of excess water. Put the ice into the smaller tin and shake.